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B.C.
02-11-2011, 07:48 PM
was looking at some pics on my computer and found this one. Took me a minute to figure out what it was.


http://forums.bucketheadbash.com/gallery/image_1891.jpg

deckofficer
02-11-2011, 08:19 PM
Grounded fuel filler neck?

Lee in KC
02-11-2011, 08:39 PM
Back of the instrument panel showing the steering column and column drop... been there, done that, a couple of times before I got it right!! :rolleyes:

B.C.
02-11-2011, 11:55 PM
Good job Lee. I have put that setup in I don't know how many buckets. I even designed the first one and that pic is the first time I really seen what it looked like from the back side. The wires you see are for the headlight dimmer switch. The button is just under the dash on the left side of the column. I just turned my laptop sideways to look at it in the right perspective.

Lee in KC
02-12-2011, 11:20 AM
Here's my first attempt. I wanted to reinforce the panel and have a good solid mounting place for the column drop, as I anticipated using my steering wheel as a handle to help get into and out of the bucket. I don't have welding skills or equipment, so I came up with the idea to "glue" a sheet of 1/4" plywood to the back of the panel. The two bolts holding the angle aluminum to the ply go into T-nuts in the panel side of the ply. I didn't want any fasteners showing on the "beauty" side of the panel. My first mistake was using bondo as the adhesive... it cooked off before I could get the ply properly clamped, but I didn't realize it at the time. Next mistake was not taking into consideration the problem of the extra thickness of the panel when mounting the instruments. I had to modify the clamps on the backs of the instruments to get them to fit. It was while cutting the holes for the instruments that I realized that the ply wasn't completely adhered to the back of the panel. I ended up running a couple of carriage bolts throught the front of the panel and the ply to secure it. Looked like crap to me, but it allowed me to get the T on the road in time for the 2006 Nats in Mountain Home!!

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/Lee_in_KC/columndrop.jpg?t=1297526670

dangileri
02-12-2011, 07:38 PM
Hmmmm... I did not get to that part of the build yet - what is the best way to secure the column mount ? By best - easy, clean and strong ???

sstock
02-12-2011, 08:21 PM
Good evening,
Great idea Lee. Thanks for the pic. when I get my Spirit Stretch body, I too dont want to have anything on the dash except for the gauges, no switches or ignition for that matter. The Spirit dash shape is a work of art IMHO. I would think liquid nails woud adhere the plywood to the glass just fine. I also think that if the gauge holes were first cut into the glass dash then the plywood could be cut over size where the gauges were placed, then the plywood could be bonded to the back of the dash. I don't know yet cuz I dont have my bucket body yet, just thinking out loud. Also, after looking at Lee's pic, I wonder if laying up some glass over the top portion of the plywood onto the top part of the dash would stregthen it even more, what do you think BC?

Steve

B.C.
02-12-2011, 09:51 PM
Steve if you have a laptop turn it 1/4 turn to the rt. and compare the pic to Lees, it is almost the same only different.The dash is plenty thick and does not need wood behind it. Also wood would make it difficult to install the gauges. We have done the column several different ways over the years but the one pictured is fast easy and clean. I'll see if I can get some more pics up.

This would be a good thread if anyone has a different setup for the column to show us how you did it.

tikkabuck
07-16-2011, 12:44 PM
Hey BC how did you attach the angle to the glass ?? Thanks

Northstar T
07-16-2011, 01:22 PM
I utilized a pedal assy from an early Pinto, so that became my base to attach a fabricated upper column support from 1/2" tubing which is also triangulated to the firewall behind the dash. very sturdy and gets the column further away from the dash for a better angle to fit my finely sculpted body ;). the lower column mount was hammered out of a piece of 18G steel which is cupped to clear the U-joint.
I like to use a wood dash face, as this allows me to pre assemble everything and then just attach the finished assembly to the dash. the fiberglass has oversize holes cut in to clear everything.

works for me.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL827/1543635/2950682/390404046.jpg

Russ