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View Full Version : Plans for my Spirit 27T Build.


Mikes27T
11-26-2011, 03:31 PM
Ok well I thought I'd share my plans for my Spirit 27 T even though I don't have the car yet. It's ordered and suppost to be here in december!!!! Can't wait. Here are the specs as of now (11/2022) on what we plan for the car.




Body: Spirit 27 T

Chassis: Spirit 27T with mounts for front shocks instead of friction shocks.

Ext Color: 2012 Dodge Challenger Orange ( Header Orange)

Int Color: Tan

Engine: 302 Ford out of 96 Mustang Gt. Will be a 347 stroker.

Trans:TCI C4

Rear 10 bolt Chevy but will have rear disk conversion. Wanted to keep chevy bolt pattern.

Gear ratio: 3.55's

Dakota Digital Dual 5in round guages.




That's all what I have come up with. Only have the engine so far. It's been sitting in my shed for a few years from another project and needs a complete rebuild. Anybody see any potential issues with what I'm planning so far? Here is a picture of the engine.

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/6435/pictures026.jpg

blyndgesser
11-26-2011, 11:15 PM
It sounds great to me. Which Dakota Digital gauges are you using--the VHX or the original LEDs?

sstock
11-27-2011, 12:33 AM
Love that color:) Great combo.
Since you picked your rear axle ratio, you must have an idea of tire size??

Mikes27T
11-27-2011, 08:09 AM
@Blyndgesser I'm going with the VHX series. They are expensive but I like the look of them and having all six guages in 2 round 5in guages is pretty cool! :)

@sstock I didn't pick a tire size yet so I guess I jumped the gun on the gear ratio. I know the look I want for the tires/wheel's but am unsure of sizes of the rims and tires. Spirit has a 27 on their website that has the look I'm going for. I was going to call them on Monday to ask if they knew the specs of the tires and wheels on it since they built it.

Here is a picture of the car from Spirits website. I would like to go with a 17, or 18in rim with low profile tire on the rear and same size rim on the front but narrower also with a low profile tire.

This is the look I'm going for.
http://shop.spiritcars.com/images/uploads/front.jpg

These are the guages from Dakota Digital I'm going to be using.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/cartimages/prd_zm_726.gif

blyndgesser
11-27-2011, 11:25 PM
Keeping the fuel injection or going with a carb? (I'm an injection fan myself, but lots of folks prefer the traditional look.)

Mikes27T
11-28-2011, 02:28 PM
Keeping the fuel injection or going with a carb? (I'm an injection fan myself, but lots of folks prefer the traditional look.)

Well I've been kicking that around. I have everything needed to go with a fuel injected setup that I took from a Mustang GT but a carb would be much simpler and a lot cleaner of a look. I'm sure I could hide the computer up under the dash but then there's all that wiring and you would have to run an O2 sensor for it to run right.

blyndgesser
11-28-2011, 04:36 PM
Sounds great! Let us know how those gauges fit--they're pretty big (5.4" according to the DD website).

Do you plan to install a hood?

Mikes27T
11-28-2011, 04:51 PM
Sounds great! Let us know how those gauges fit--they're pretty big (5.4" according to the DD website).

Do you plan to install a hood?

They are pretty big but Josh at spirit said they will fit. Spirit is cutting out the holes for the guages for me.

Mikes27T
12-09-2011, 10:18 PM
She's out of the mold!! My 27 kit is going to ship this Tuesday!

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/7097/outofmold.jpg

blyndgesser
12-09-2011, 10:57 PM
Woohoo! Can't wait to see the build get started!

deckofficer
12-10-2011, 02:06 AM
The only "problem" that I can see, is with that 347 stroker, its going to be fast. 3.55 gears is plenty low enough even with 31" tires. I'm running 3.54 with 31" AND a 0.64 overdrive, but for most typical engine builds what I'm running is too tall geared. General rule of thumb, unlike a diesel that needs the cruise speed at the torque peak, generally 1600~1700 rpm, a gas engine will be most fuel efficient at hwy cruise at 1/2 the rpm of your engine's torque peak. A normal build for good peak hp will have a torque peak of 4000+ rpm, so a good rpm for 70 mph would be 2000~2200. My engine, I built for max torque as low in the rpm as possible, peak at 2800 rpm. If I cruise the hwy at 1400~1600 rpm, level road, I break 30 mpg. This picture will show just how tall I'm geared, with a muffled exhaust the loudest noise is wind and tire noise.

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff452/deckofficer/Overdrive/DSC013911014x760.jpg

This video was at last year's Bucket Head Bash rodeo, and is a good example of the quietness of a motor built for torque. The previous engine was built for peak hp and the exhaust had a loud bark, just due to valve timimg with the cam used for that application. Same exhaust system with an RV cam is at least 10 db quieter. On the part of the rodeo that you punch it, I went just shy of the secondaries kicking in, not enough parking lot to get slowed back down for the corner, but even with that much throttle, still pretty quiet.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/j9zOxjMHOC4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Since I had to re-teach myself how to get a video player up on this site, I'll include this one just for practice. This was one of the 50+ Sunday School kids lined up for rides at the rodeo. She was the only kid that you could hear scream ABOVE the roar of the exhaust. Listen carefully as he nails it, exhaust at its loudest, scream heard over the exhaust bark.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/evQDqpR-RjM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Mikes27T
12-15-2011, 07:05 PM
She's all done!! It's going to be shipping out this Monday and I'll have it thursday. It didn't make it out on Tuesday because of my work schedule.




http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2031/27tj.jpg

@ Bob, Thanks for your reply. Your car looks and sounds awesome! With the cam, heads, and intake I'm going to be running she will make plenty of low end torque. I also build for low end torque. Most people don't realize how important torque is. I'll always sacrifice a litte HP to get more torque especially on a street driven car.

blyndgesser
12-15-2011, 07:58 PM
I fantasize about someday building one with a Cummins 4bt or similar diesel. Talk about torque!

Mikes27T
12-15-2011, 08:13 PM
I fantasize about someday building one with a Cummins 4bt or similar diesel. Talk about torque!

That would be interesting! A Turbo Diesel T Bucket!! LOL:D I'm sure it's already been done.

deckofficer
12-16-2011, 03:31 AM
If it wasn't for the fact that this Audi is only available in Europe, I'd have it instead of my last build. The 4.2 L aluminum Audi TDI twin turbo, intercooled diesel lays down 326 hp @ 3600 and 498 lb/ft @ 1600, and weighs 80 lbs less than a sbc. Those numbers after some Gale Banks wrenching could run an easy 500+ hp at probably under 4000 rpm and 700+ lb/ft. That in a 1790 lb T would be just what I would want. More than likely 50+ mpg to boot.

sstock
12-16-2011, 10:33 AM
If it wasn't for the fact that this Audi is only available in Europe, I'd have it instead of my last build. The 4.2 L aluminum Audi TDI twin turbo, intercooled diesel lays down 326 hp @ 3600 and 498 lb/ft @ 1600, and weighs 80 lbs less than a sbc. Those numbers after some Gale Banks wrenching could run an easy 500+ hp at probably under 4000 rpm and 700+ lb/ft. That in a 1790 lb T would be just what I would want. More than likely 50+ mpg to boot.

OOOh yeah, a turbo'd quattro T:D

Mikes27T
12-22-2011, 04:08 PM
She's home and in my garage!!!! Made it safe and sound with no damage. Looks awesome. Still going through all the parts and hardware to make sure I got everything.

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/1399/pictures061.jpg
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/4415/pictures063b.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/4217/pictures064q.jpg

blyndgesser
12-23-2011, 04:33 PM
Seeing how it looks in the gelcoat finish, I'd be tempted to paint it in a really dark metallic graphite color. I hope you'll do a really detailed build thread--I'm looking forward to following this project!

Looks like the dash is pre-drilled for 3-3/8 and 2-1/16 gauges--did you decide not to go with the big Dakota Digital VHX duo?

Mikes27T
12-23-2011, 05:55 PM
Seeing how it looks in the gelcoat finish, I'd be tempted to paint it in a really dark metallic graphite color. I hope you'll do a really detailed build thread--I'm looking forward to following this project!

Looks like the dash is pre-drilled for 3-3/8 and 2-1/16 gauges--did you decide not to go with the big Dakota Digital VHX duo?

Yep I will be doing a detailed build thread. Still working on insulating my garage and I'm almost done. Just have to finish up the ceiling and then turn the heat on so I can get this project started!

Yea decided the Dakota guages were too big and so we went with a more traditional setup. They are 3-3/8's and 2-1/16's guages. May be going with a set from Summit Racing called New Vintage USA. I like the beige face they have and I think it will go great with the Orange paint and tan interior. Still thinking about it though.



http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/NVU-37604-02.jpg

blyndgesser
12-23-2011, 06:36 PM
VERY cool.

sstock
12-27-2011, 01:39 PM
Yep I will be doing a detailed build thread. Still working on insulating my garage and I'm almost done. Just have to finish up the ceiling and then turn the heat on so I can get this project started!

Yea decided the Dakota guages were too big and so we went with a more traditional setup. They are 3-3/8's and 2-1/16's guages. May be going with a set from Summit Racing called New Vintage USA. I like the beige face they have and I think it will go great with the Orange paint and tan interior. Still thinking about it though.



http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/NVU-37604-02.jpg

I went with those too, look really nice

Mikes27T
12-27-2011, 03:19 PM
Not much of an update. Still working on insulating the garage but the gas company did hook up the heater so I now have heat!! Got a chance to mount the windshield posts on the car. Drivers side post is perfect but the pass side I'm going to have to do a little body work to make it perfect but that's to be expected I guess. Here are some pictures.

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/1346/pictures041.jpg
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/205/pictures043.jpg

blyndgesser
12-27-2011, 03:32 PM
How much bodywork is involved in making that post fit?

Mikes27T
12-27-2011, 04:21 PM
How much bodywork is involved in making that post fit?

The fit at the top of the post isn't bad but there is a gap between the body and the very bottom of the post where the bolt hole is probably less than a 1/4 inch. I think the body just needs to be sanded down right in the middle to allow the post to sit evenly top to bottom but I'm no body guy. I will try and get a better picture of it.

blyndgesser
12-27-2011, 04:40 PM
Go slowly and it shouldn't be too bad. Is there a lot of curvature to try to match?

Mikes27T
12-27-2011, 05:52 PM
Go slowly and it shouldn't be too bad. Is there a lot of curvature to try to match?

I called the body shop I go to and who will be doing the body work and paint job on my 27 and he told me to leave it alone and don't touch a thing!!! LOL :D I may take his advice but I think it's a job I can do and I will take it very slowly. I looks like only the bottom part of the curve is what needs to be matched.

mustang
12-27-2011, 08:35 PM
No sweat, you can do it. Fiberglass is a very forgiving material, if your screw it up just add a little more glass to correct the problem. Just remember one thing when you do glass work most fiberglass"new or old" has a surface curing wax on it. This wax must be removed with acetone prior to doing any repairs. Go to your public library and check out the books on boat repairs, they are filled with great information on how to repair and paint fiberglass. Good luck on your project!!

sstock
12-28-2011, 11:56 AM
I would also cut a template out of thin plywood/or alike (if you dont have the ws cut yet) to act as if there is a windshield prior to post fitment. On my Spirit 23 it has a framed windshield and I assembled the entire setup and ws posts then worked on fitment, one side needed alittle bit of glassing then bondo to get perfect the other near nothing.
Steve

Mikes27T
12-28-2011, 12:50 PM
I would also cut a template out of thin plywood/or alike (if you dont have the ws cut yet) to act as if there is a windshield prior to post fitment. On my Spirit 23 it has a framed windshield and I assembled the entire setup and ws posts then worked on fitment, one side needed alittle bit of glassing then bondo to get perfect the other near nothing.
Steve

That is a great idea thanks! Don't have the glass yet.

Mikes27T
12-28-2011, 03:42 PM
Starting to lay everything out and began to put the front suspension together. Notice the radius rods and how one pair has an S support welded on and the other pair are plain. Will this look funny on the car with only 2 of them having this design? I wonder why all 4 don't have that done?

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/4618/27tpictures004.jpg

Mikes27T
12-28-2011, 04:55 PM
Ok found out that the "S" in the one pair of radius rods is to help with flexing of the rear and the "S" sits so far back on the radius rod you wouldn't even see them anyways.

mustang
12-28-2011, 07:42 PM
The one with the "S" goes to the rear, the "S" would interfear with the tie rod if you put it on the front.

Be carefull with that open flame heater when doing body work, dust can be very combustable.

Mikes27T
12-28-2011, 11:25 PM
Well putting the front end together isn't going so well. Looks like the Drivers side bracket that's welded on to the axle is angled in more than the pass side. Things look off and don't want to line up. The shackle bolts on the pass side come in contact with the axle but the drivers side shackle bolts clear with plenty of room. The drivers side rear radius rod doesn't want to mount to the outside of the frame bracket. Am I doing something wrong or are things out of whack? I've never put together a suspension like this.

Pass side shackle
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/9553/pictures27005.jpg
Drivers side shackle
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/3760/pictures27007.jpg
pass side axle bracket
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/4485/pictures27010.jpg
Drivers side axle bracket hard to tell from the picture but it is angled in more than the pass side.
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7376/pictures27011.jpg

sstock
12-29-2011, 02:46 AM
Mike it looks like you have the wrong front shackle too. I think your shock will have a clearance problem with that one, it did for me. CCR has the correct one too. Study this pic and you will see the difference
http://www.nloc.net/photopost/data/2624/medium/P1120822.JPG
The one in the middle is the shackle you need, you have the shackle on the left.
http://californiacustomroadsters.com/lowshock.jpg

Mikes27T
12-29-2011, 08:23 AM
Mike it looks like you have the wrong front shackle too. I think your shock will have a clearance problem with that one, it did for me. CCR has the correct one too. Study this pic and you will see the difference
http://www.nloc.net/photopost/data/2624/medium/P1120822.JPG
The one in the middle is the shackle you need, you have the shackle on the left.
http://californiacustomroadsters.com/lowshock.jpg


Thanks Steve! Yep there is no way to mount the shock with that bracket. The spring is in the way. I think the axle brackets are off also. Going to try calling spirit to let them know.

Mikes27T
12-29-2011, 10:51 AM
Just got off the phone with Josh and B.C and they are going to take care of everything. They are going to replace the front axle and the shackle's. Spirit is the best! Thanks guys!

sstock
12-29-2011, 11:23 AM
Great. You gotta love Spirit Industries.:)
Also, you will need to trim the bolts a little so they don't contact and scratch the front axle before you get it painted-the shackle needs to move without touching the axle.
Happy New Year,
Steve

Mikes27T
12-31-2011, 04:08 PM
Rear end is mocked up! Everything still needs to be adjusted and centered but it's all together.

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/6859/carandwedding034.jpg
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/6152/carandwedding035.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/557/carandwedding036.jpg

the bat
01-09-2012, 12:27 PM
I would of assambled it with all the bolts facing going to rear,not front,by putting spring hanger and shackle together before ya add to axle= looks better with nuts in rear and has more clear movement,that dosen't fix tabs on axle but dose look nicer and will move better for next time ya put it together. That is as long as it clears tie rod too ?.
Just ideas for ya.

sstock
01-09-2012, 07:36 PM
It would be nice to do it that way Bat, but the tie rod will for sure hit the bolt ends when you turn the steering wheel more than one turn, just not a lot of clearance that way with these suspension components.:)
Maybe, if one places the tie rod in front of the axle then but I don't know what it would do to the Ackerman, plus it looks like it would then need a longer tie rod too.

Mikes27T
01-11-2012, 09:42 PM
Got the new axle spirit replaced for me and the new one is perfect. Fixed the clearence issues I was having. Now I'm having trouble with the front shock setup. Upper mount that was included with the kit was clearly not meant for this chassis and they are huge compared to the shocks. Even with the shocks extened out all the way there's no way it will work. The bolt that's welded to the to of the mount is way to big and long to go through the bushing on the shock. Got the correct CCR lower shock shackle mounts and the shocks interfere with the spring and spring pivot. :( I know that this is just part of building a car like this and your going to run into problems and I know it will get worked out. Here are some pictures. First couple are of the upper shock mounts and the rest are just how far I've come with the build. :)


http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9987/27t013fni.jpg
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/411/27t014.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6231/27t001.jpg
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/154/27t004.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/7092/27t007.jpg

sstock
01-12-2012, 10:19 AM
Mike I sent you a PM. on the spring/shackle clearance problem you re having. I'm running a reverse eye spring which makes the difference and gives the needed clearance. Also, the shock brackets you have are not like mine, those things are huge:confused:
Here is a pic of mine, I bolted them to the frame with 4ea 5/16" fine thread grade 8 bolts--2 on top and to on the side of the bracket.
Hope this helps
http://www.nloc.net/photopost/data/2624/medium/P1120824.JPG

Did you tell Josh that these are the Lee from KC design brackets??

Reverse spring eye:
http://www.nloc.net/photopost/data/2624/medium/P1120822.JPG

Mikes27T
01-12-2012, 10:31 AM
Just looking at your pictures I can tell that a reverse eye spring will definitly fix my clearence issues. I don't know if Josh or BC reads these posts but I shure wish they would. I'm new to this so I didn't know to tell them about the Lee from KC design brackets .

Lee in KC
01-12-2012, 11:15 AM
Mike, those brackets look like they have the tube welded on the wrong end!! Those are just flat weird lookin'!

Mikes27T
01-12-2012, 11:17 AM
Mike, those brackets look like they have the tube welded on the wrong end!! Those are just flat weird lookin'!

It's not even just that it's the bolt that's welded in there is way to long and thick for the eyelet of the shock. The front spring is also wrong and won't clear the shock on the lower end either. I need the reverse eye leaf spring.

B.C.
01-12-2012, 12:06 PM
I have a team reviewing the post here and reading the dialogues. I have the pattern in my hand as I am typing this. It appears the bolt was welded on the wrong end and the shock that we setup was 5 inches taller. Cutting down the pattern now and making new parts this afternoon. We will get them out tomorrow. Not sure on the reverse eye spring and will get with Josh this afternoon and we will get the parts needed to make it work. I am sorry for the problem.

Mikes27T
01-23-2012, 10:16 PM
Mocking up the front spindles and brake's and I have a question. I'm putting on the brake rotors and my question is do I have to grease the wheel bearings? I'm just mocking things up right now and I also want to be able to move the car around in the garage. I just figured since it has to all come back apart for paint that it would be silly to grease them. But it could be a while before it's taken back apart for paint.

sstock
01-24-2012, 01:39 AM
I went ahead and greased mine Mike, even though it is coming apart, it is a pretty easy cleanup when the time comes. I just didn't like the idea of a dry bearing on the race, probably wouldn't of hurt anything but that is just me.

T=Test
01-24-2012, 06:45 AM
Mocking up the front spindles and brake's and I have a question. I'm putting on the brake rotors and my question is do I have to grease the wheel bearings? I'm just mocking things up right now and I also want to be able to move the car around in the garage. I just figured since it has to all come back apart for paint that it would be silly to grease them. But it could be a while before it's taken back apart for paint.

Just use motor oil or WD40 so they won't score the rollers or races. Cleanup with brake cleaner or carb cleaner, then pack properly.

Mikes27T
01-25-2012, 03:15 PM
Thanks for your help guys! I ended up using grease on the bearings as I'm not sure how long the car will be at this stage. Not much else new. Still waiting on the spring and shock mounts but I'm sure they will get here.

Mikes27T
02-20-2012, 09:52 PM
Did the rear disk conversion on the 27 this past weekend. Just mocking things up. Still have to do the rear seals, bearings, gears, differential, and paint. Here are some pictures.



http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/1504/pictures022.jpg
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/1664/pictures021g.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/5205/27ford007.jpg
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/2491/27ford014.jpg

Hulkamania
02-20-2012, 10:06 PM
Mike....thanks for the pictures. Frame is looking good. Disc brakes look good.

Mikes27T
02-21-2012, 06:01 PM
Mike....thanks for the pictures. Frame is looking good. Disc brakes look good.

Thanks!

Mikes27T
02-23-2012, 05:26 PM
She's on wheels! Well for a couple minutes it was. Body/ wheels are already back off. Had to get a feel what's she was going to look like. Here's a couple pictures. Starting on the brake lines now along with mounting the upper front shock mounts and shocks.



http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/6058/27ford002.jpg
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/6204/27ford003.jpg
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/2736/27ford006.jpg

Hulkamania
02-23-2012, 08:20 PM
mike you need to get your wife to drive the 4 wheeler and pull you around the block and you can make vroom vroom noises. LOL! THanks for the pictures.

Mikes27T
02-23-2012, 08:36 PM
mike you need to get your wife to drive the 4 wheeler and pull you around the block and you can make vroom vroom noises. LOL! THanks for the pictures.

I tried but she said NOOO!!!! LOL :D

Mikes27T
02-23-2012, 10:48 PM
Some more work got done tonight. Got the top bolts for the shock mounts drilled and tapped. Just need to do the bolts on the side of each brackets and they are done.

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5039/27hotrod001.jpg
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/8762/27hotrod004.jpg

Mikes27T
02-24-2012, 02:06 PM
Finished mocking up the upper shock mounts and shocks. All holes are drilled and tapped. Just have to clean up the brackets a little by rounding the edges and corners.



http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/3728/27frontshockmounts001.jpg
http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/1126/27frontshockmounts004.jpg

Mikes27T
03-03-2012, 04:55 PM
Picked the engine up from the machine shop today!! Waiting on the heads and a few other goodies then I'll get it finished up.



http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2112/pictures332012043.jpg

sstock
03-03-2012, 05:46 PM
Fantastic looking Mike, keep the build going.

Hulkamania
03-04-2012, 12:13 PM
Doing an awesome job Mike keep posting them. I still think you need to bribe your wife to get her to pull you around on the 4 wheeler!! LOL!!! Of course video it as you are doing it.

Mikes27T
03-09-2012, 05:54 PM
Mocking up the gas tank in my 27 and I have it placed as far forward as possible to clear the rear end. The issue I'm having is the bottom of the tank is sitting on the floor of the body which is making the tank not sit level. Should I just make spacers (steel plate) to bring the tank up so it sits level and is up off the floor? I will be placing 1/4 inch think rubber between the frame and the tank mounts but that won't be enough to make it sit level.



http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/1849/pictures372012011.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/5022/pictures372012012.jpg
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/39/fueltankmounting002.jpg

B.C.
03-09-2012, 06:19 PM
Mike I'll be installing a tank in a 27 turnkey Mon. It should sit level with the 1/4" rubber to lift it. Maybe I will see what is wrong when we put our tank in. I'll let you know

Mikes27T
03-15-2012, 07:53 PM
Christmas in March!! LOL :D
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/425/photo0020p.jpg

Mikes27T
03-16-2012, 02:33 PM
Mike I'll be installing a tank in a 27 turnkey Mon. It should sit level with the 1/4" rubber to lift it. Maybe I will see what is wrong when we put our tank in. I'll let you know

B.C. did you guys get the tank in that 27 turnkey you were building? How did it go? Can you send me or post some pictures.

Thanks

Mikes27T
03-17-2012, 09:02 PM
Working on the brake lines and have a question. What kind of fasteners do you use to secure the brake line clamps to the frame? Just a self tapping screw or do I need to drill and tap for each line clamp?

sstock
03-17-2012, 10:34 PM
I drilled and tapped 1/4" stainless button head screws

Mikes27T
03-18-2012, 08:19 AM
I drilled and tapped 1/4" stainless button head screws

Thanks! Were did you pick those up at?

sstock
03-18-2012, 10:38 AM
Ace hardware, Wilco or Lowes should have those.

Mikes27T
03-18-2012, 12:30 PM
Ace hardware, Wilco or Lowes should have those.

Thanks. Didn't have much luck local. Picked up a 1/4 20 tap and some button head 1/4 20 bolts but not stainless at NAPA. I'll just use what I got for the mock up until I find some nice stainless bolts. I also needs some stainless 5/16ths stainbutton heads for the shock mounts. I'll give lowes and home depot a shot when I'm down in that area.

On my way back home from NAPA I was behind a blown 68 Camaro and a 23 T bucket!!!!! The weather has been so nice here. All the cars and hot rods are out!! Making me wish mine was done! Maybe next year I hope.

sstock
03-18-2012, 03:00 PM
Mike, I don't want to hear about nice weather. Up here in the PNW, it has been nasty the last 2 weeks or so and next week more of the same.:(

Mikes27T
03-19-2012, 04:21 PM
Here are some pictures of my front end. Through frame fittings are done and braided lines are on. Working on the rear through frame fittings now then the brake lines.

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/3725/frontend27ford005.jpg
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/6177/frontend27ford002.jpg

Mikes27T
03-20-2012, 07:50 PM
Started running the brake lines today and I can say that so far in this build this is my least favorite thing to do!! LOL Did the rear section from the drivers side through frame fitting to the pass side through frame fitting. Still have to drill and tap the brake line clamps.

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/147/pictures3202012009.jpg

Lee in KC
03-21-2012, 08:39 AM
Started running the brake lines today and I can say that so far in this build this is my least favorite thing to do!!
LOL, wait 'til you start the wiring! :mad:

benT
03-27-2012, 06:36 PM
Looking good!

Mikes27T
03-28-2012, 07:49 PM
Thanks Ben!

Made up a couple brackets for the fuel tank today. Wanted to get the brackets finished up before going on with the brake lines. Brackets came out great and added alot more support for the tank plus since the tank will be sitting on the floor of the body this tank isn't going anywhere! LOL Still have to space the tank up a little so it will sit level when the body is on.

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/7264/27ford004.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5678/27ford015.jpg
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/5005/27ford017.jpg

Hulkamania
03-28-2012, 09:35 PM
looking good Mike. You are getting the hang of it. Your brakes lines are looking good so far.

Mikes27T
03-29-2012, 02:20 PM
looking good Mike. You are getting the hang of it. Your brakes lines are looking good so far.

Thanks!:)

Mikes27T
03-29-2012, 09:54 PM
Cleaned out my fuel tank today. Used a flexible magnet and pulled out alot of junk as you can see in the picture. Several times the magnet came out of the tank looking like it does below. With a fabricated tank like the one I'm using I would think this is normal so if your build has a fabricated tank make sure you clean it out before using it!!

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1572/27ford3292012003.jpg

Mikes27T
04-09-2012, 09:04 PM
Took a break from the build and built a stand for the body of my 27!! Wish I did this when I first brought the car home! I put caster wheels on it and can move the body anywhere including outside on nice days. I made it so the body is at a nice height so I don't have to bend over and I can still get under it. The body is bolted to it. The body will also be painted on this stand.

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1914/pictures492012032.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/7533/pictures492012034.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/3804/pictures492012035.jpg

Hulkamania
04-09-2012, 09:31 PM
Mike looks like you are getting the hang of it. That cart was a great idea. Sure helps and makes it easier to move and work on.

sstock
04-09-2012, 11:12 PM
Cleaned out my fuel tank today. Used a flexible magnet and pulled out alot of junk as you can see in the picture. Several times the magnet came out of the tank looking like it does below. With a fabricated tank like the one I'm using I would think this is normal so if your build has a fabricated tank make sure you clean it out before using it!!

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1572/27ford3292012003.jpg

Mike, just an fyi, make sure you put a 100 micron fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump. I did the same as you with the magnet and still had to have my bucket towed last saturday because the filter was plugged with metal shavings. I should of checked it, I only had a hundred miles on it. Today I drained all the fuel out of the tank and filtered it and you wouldn't believe what came out of it. I filled and filtered/drained the tank 3 more times and it looks good now.

Mikes27T
04-10-2012, 01:24 PM
Mike, just an fyi, make sure you put a 100 micron fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump. I did the same as you with the magnet and still had to have my bucket towed last saturday because the filter was plugged with metal shavings. I should of checked it, I only had a hundred miles on it. Today I drained all the fuel out of the tank and filtered it and you wouldn't believe what came out of it. I filled and filtered/drained the tank 3 more times and it looks good now.

I got as much as I could with the magnet but I know there is still more in the tank. I also plan on flushing it out before it get's mounted in the car. I also think an inline filter is a must I just don't know how or where I'm going to put it. I'm running a Ford drivetrain and the fuel pump is on the drivers side as is the outlet of the fuel tank so the line needs to be run on the drivers side. The only problem with that is you have the Brake master cylinder and mount, brake proportioning valve, steering box and mount and the brake lines. LOL My plan right now is to run braided fuel line inside the frame rail so the fuel filter would need to be between the tank and were the fuel line goes into the frame.

Sorry to hear you had trouble with your car's fuel filter. Not fun watching your baby get towed home.

Mikes27T
04-14-2012, 03:19 PM
Well it's a beautiful weekend. The body of my 27 is baking in the sun and I'm working on brake lines. Finished up the back brake lines and now I'm working on the front lines.

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2736/27ford006.jpg
http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/6058/27ford002.jpg
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/7264/27ford004.jpg

B.C.
04-15-2012, 10:38 PM
Mike it's looking great. Are you going to split the front brake lines at the crossmember?

sstock
04-16-2012, 12:21 AM
Looks like it Bob, he has a Tee right after the proportioning valve.

B.C.
04-16-2012, 11:42 AM
A picture is worth a thousand words. I think it looks cleaner when you split it at the crossmember.

Mikes27T
04-16-2012, 03:04 PM
Thanks! Yep going to split it at the crossmember. I put the proportioning valve right were the tubing would line up with the back side of the crossmember.

Mikes27T
04-21-2012, 09:39 PM
Well got the heads back from the engine shop!! Got them all torqued down. Should be able to get the engine and trans mocked up in the frame this weekend. :)

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/1975/27fordengine002.jpg
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/8899/27fordengine006.jpg

Mikes27T
05-06-2012, 05:42 PM
Tried to install the engine and trans today and ran into a little bit of an issue. The motor mounts don't line up with the mounts welded to the frame. The motor mounts on the engine are slotted for adjustments but it's all the way over as far as it can go on the drivers side and no where close on the pass side. Should I try and dremel the motor mounts out on both sides to make the slots bigger? I don't have a welder so I really don't want to cut the motor mounts off the frame to shorten them. Thought's?

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/9678/pictures512036.jpg
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3367/pictures512034.jpg

sstock
05-06-2012, 10:34 PM
Talk to BC. I'm sure he uses a fixture when he welds the mounts to the frame. Maybe he has a different mount that will give you the fit you need. I would be hesitant to taking material off the mount to make it fit.:confused:

Mikes27T
05-07-2012, 07:46 PM
Talk to BC. I'm sure he uses a fixture when he welds the mounts to the frame. Maybe he has a different mount that will give you the fit you need. I would be hesitant to taking material off the mount to make it fit.:confused:

Yep I'm not sure what to do either. No matter what I do I can't get it to line up. Josh gave me the part# for the motor mounts and that's what I picked up. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

B.C.
05-09-2012, 09:39 AM
Mike it was good talking to you yesterday. I tried calling you this morning and will try again later. I'm going to send you some motor mounts that will work. Should have them out today.

Mikes27T
05-09-2012, 11:34 AM
Mike it was good talking to you yesterday. I tried calling you this morning and will try again later. I'm going to send you some motor mounts that will work. Should have them out today.

Sorry BC I didn't get your call. I spent last night and this morning in the Emergency room Turns out I have a really bad hernea and now I need surgery. Just landed a good new job a little over a week ago and now I'm going to be down for weeks. :(

B.C.
05-09-2012, 11:57 AM
Bummer... Talk to you later.

Mikes27T
05-09-2012, 12:11 PM
Great talking with you Bob! Thanks again for your help. You guys are awesome!!!

Mikes27T
05-17-2012, 08:45 PM
Well got the engine and trans mocked up into the frame. The intake is just set in place. Still have to install the lifters, push rods, and rockers.

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/8390/pictures51712051.jpg
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/2691/pictures51712055.jpg

sstock
05-17-2012, 11:50 PM
Looks really nice Mike. Coming along nicely. Did those motor mounts work out ok?

Mikes27T
05-18-2012, 08:00 AM
Looks really nice Mike. Coming along nicely. Did those motor mounts work out ok?

Thanks! No the original motor mounts I bought didn't work so I called B.C. and talked with him and he sent me a new pair that work fine. All is good now! Thanks Josh and B.C!!

Mikes27T
07-31-2012, 08:20 PM
Got the radiator mocked up. Still have to shorten the radiator mounts and make them look pretty. Going to get the 32 grille mounted next.

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/7439/radiator005.jpg
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/6863/radiator002.jpg

3quarter32
07-31-2012, 09:28 PM
Lookin good Mike. Those radiators are almost to pretty to use. Whats the distance from the firewall to the back of the radiator. I am thinking about shortening my frame about 4" between the engine mounts and radiator mounts. Lots of room between fan and radiator that can be removed. Best that I can figure, the top of the 32 shell needs to be approximately 1" lower than cowl.
Lee

Mikes27T
07-31-2012, 09:41 PM
Lookin good Mike. Those radiators are almost to pretty to use. Whats the distance from the firewall to the back of the radiator. I am thinking about shortening my frame about 4" between the engine mounts and radiator mounts. Lots of room between fan and radiator that can be removed. Best that I can figure, the top of the 32 shell needs to be approximately 1" lower than cowl.
Lee

I am also setting mine up so that the 32 shell should be about 1" lower than the cowl. I don't know off hand the distance from the firewall to the back of the radiator but I will check my notes when I'm back out in the garage tomorrow and let you know. I'm running a Ford engine (Windsor block) and they tend to be longer than Chevy blocks.

sstock
07-31-2012, 10:31 PM
Lookin good Mike. Those radiators are almost to pretty to use. Whats the distance from the firewall to the back of the radiator. I am thinking about shortening my frame about 4" between the engine mounts and radiator mounts. Lots of room between fan and radiator that can be removed. Best that I can figure, the top of the 32 shell needs to be approximately 1" lower than cowl.
Lee

Agree Lee, If I were to build my 23 again I would take 3-1/2 to 4" out between the motor mounts and front support. Keep in mind they put all that frame in there for big blocks and blower drives. If someone could come up with a shock mount and incoporate a headlight mount with it like Speedway does on their 23, you could even shorten it a bit more IMHO. One thing I really like is the room behind the engine and firewall, incase you have to pull the tranny and you dont have to pull the body.

It is like it was once said to me, you have to build the same house three times to get it right, why should a hotrod be any different?
Steve

Mikes27T
08-17-2012, 08:32 AM
Mocking the grille shell up. Still need to make the aluminum brackets to hold it in place. Starting to look like a Hot Rod now!!! When I first got the grille on last night I had a smile from ear to ear!! LOL In the picture it looks like the shell is higher than the cowl but it is actually just below it.

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/7264/27ford004.jpg

sstock
08-17-2012, 11:34 AM
Looks killer Mike:o
Keep up the good work, I just came from a rotary club meeting and it had a mini car show, everyone loved the T. Got more than 1300 miles on her and it has been fantastic, still have a few more little bugs to work out but that is the fun of it.
Steve

Mikes27T
08-17-2012, 01:43 PM
Looks killer Mike:o
Keep up the good work, I just came from a rotary club meeting and it had a mini car show, everyone loved the T. Got more than 1300 miles on her and it has been fantastic, still have a few more little bugs to work out but that is the fun of it.
Steve

Thanks Steve. I can't wait to put the first mile on my 27!!! :)

3quarter32
08-17-2012, 01:50 PM
Mike, can you loosen off the bolts that hold the mounts to the engine and make them line up? If so, put in the mount to frame bolts, then try tightening the engine bolts back up. Just a thought. With the weight on the mounts with all bolts in, they may settle in.
Lee

Duh,, Sorry Mike, I was on the 3rd page when I read the post about the engine mounts. Just tell me to pay attention next time.

Mikes27T
08-17-2012, 07:47 PM
Mike, can you loosen off the bolts that hold the mounts to the engine and make them line up? If so, put in the mount to frame bolts, then try tightening the engine bolts back up. Just a thought. With the weight on the mounts with all bolts in, they may settle in.
Lee

Duh,, Sorry Mike, I was on the 3rd page when I read the post about the engine mounts. Just tell me to pay attention next time.


:)It's ok. Yea I got the engine mounts all worked out then I sold the engine and trans in the pictures above and went with a different setup although they will still use the same engine mounts. :)

KCA7
08-18-2012, 08:43 AM
Agree Lee, If I were to build my 23 again I would take 3-1/2 to 4" out between the motor mounts and front support. Keep in mind they put all that frame in there for big blocks and blower drives. If someone could come up with a shock mount and incoporate a headlight mount with it like Speedway does on their 23, you could even shorten it a bit more IMHO. One thing I really like is the room behind the engine and firewall, incase you have to pull the tranny and you dont have to pull the body.

It is like it was once said to me, you have to build the same house three times to get it right, why should a hotrod be any different?
Steve

I would go with a smaller front spring perch.

Mikes27T
09-11-2012, 08:03 PM
Almost finished up with running the brake lines. Had a little helper in the garage with me today!:) I also picked up the Eastwood's Brake line flaring tool and man that thing is awesome! One of the best tools I've ever purchased. Going to finish up with the brake lines so I can get the frame in primer.

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/9521/carpictures031.jpg
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/1606/carpictures041.jpg
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/593/carpictures047.jpg
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/2130/carpictures050.jpg

3quarter32
09-11-2012, 09:55 PM
Lookin good Mike. Good lookin helper you have there also. I used AN3 fittings on my brake lines. I bit the bullet and bought a Rigid flaring tool. It rachets when the flare is finished. You are so right about good tools. I had a cycle shop for 22 years, and had to start off with lesser quality tools for a few months. Finally was able to purchase the "good stuff" and never regretted the extra cost.
Keep up the posts for us, as they are always helpful to gain others ideas. I have been meaning to start a build post but don't have the nerve.
Lee
ps. after looking at your brake lines, I have decided to make a change to mine. I like some of your ideas better.

Mikes27T
09-12-2012, 06:29 AM
Lookin good Mike. Good lookin helper you have there also. I used AN3 fittings on my brake lines. I bit the bullet and bought a Rigid flaring tool. It rachets when the flare is finished. You are so right about good tools. I had a cycle shop for 22 years, and had to start off with lesser quality tools for a few months. Finally was able to purchase the "good stuff" and never regretted the extra cost.
Keep up the posts for us, as they are always helpful to gain others ideas. I have been meaning to start a build post but don't have the nerve.
Lee
ps. after looking at your brake lines, I have decided to make a change to mine. I like some of your ideas better.

Did you go with the braided brake line also? You should start a build post here on the forum. It's a great way to get idea's and share with others what you are doing. Steve's (SSTOCK) build thread was a big help and I wish it was still here for us to see.

B.C.
09-12-2012, 08:28 AM
Mike I love this thread and others like it. I am thinking of ways to get them more exposure.

Mikes27T
09-13-2012, 08:45 PM
Got some polished parts today!! Still waiting on the steering wheel though. Anybody have any pictures of how to mount the column drop up under the dash? Not really sure of how to go about it. Looks like this is the next project after I get the brake lines finished. Like everybody else in this economy money is tight right now so it's just nice to be able to keep moving forward on this build.

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/6592/carsteeringcolumn010.jpg

3quarter32
09-13-2012, 11:23 PM
Mike, I use stainless flex lines front and rear. For my steering drop I used a connecting rod from a 60hp flathead engine. Notched the bottom of the dash, drilled the bar that runs just behing the dash for the drop.
Ya, I should get a build post going on the delivery. I am trying to organize in my feeble mind on how to do it.

sstock
09-16-2012, 10:53 AM
Did you go with the braided brake line also? You should start a build post here on the forum. It's a great way to get idea's and share with others what you are doing. Steve's (SSTOCK) build thread was a big help and I wish it was still here for us to see.

Looks like my thread went out in the garbage with that spammer that was here last month, too bad, I had a ton of work in it, darn spammers-to keep it clean in here, I really didn't say what was on my mind.:(

Your build is looking really nice and you have great attention to detail.

Oh and btw, I like your little helper, it is always nice to have the little ones in the garage, makes it so much more fun. Learning tools early will always be a plus in life.

Mikes27T
09-23-2012, 03:52 PM
Brake lines are done now. Ran out of stainless bolts so I had to finish in plain steel but I'll order more for final assembly. I think the lines came out nice. They are all tight to the frame and out of the way. Wires and fuel line will be run inside the frame rail. Next I'm going to mock up the headlight mounts on along with the Trans cooler and then strip everything back off the frame for Primer/paint.

This may not be a super fast build with family, work and everything else going on but I sure am having a blast building it!!!!!:D:D:D

http://imageshack.us/a/img856/8120/pictures9232012010.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img27/986/pictures9232012011.jpg

3quarter32
09-23-2012, 06:46 PM
Great job on the brake lines, Mike. Shoulda had you over to do mine. Mine are "ok", but I like the looks of yours better.
Lee

Mikes27T
10-20-2012, 05:48 PM
Steering column is in. The boy looks like he's ready to grab some gears!! :D Still have to finish up the steering linkage and put some dimples in for the set screws.

Found out it's pretty hard to get in and out of the drivers side with the column and steering wheel in place even with the column tilted all the way up. The steering wheel in the picture is only being used for mock up so I hope I can find a steering wheel that doesn't have as much dish to it but I'm not sure that will even help. Looks like I'm going to have to get in and out through the pass side.

http://imageshack.us/a/img502/4341/pictures10202012006.jpg

3quarter32
10-20-2012, 05:59 PM
That kiddo is going to be a Hot Rodder some day! He is looking for the shifter already. Post some more on your steering linkage when you get it all in.
Lee

Mikes27T
10-20-2012, 06:31 PM
Steering column and linkage are in.

Mikes27T
11-02-2012, 05:46 PM
So the plan for my 27 T was for it to be orange with a dark tan interior since before we even got the car home but another color has caught my eye and is really growing on me. It's Root Beer Brown Matallic. I really like it and it's different. I think this color with a dark tan interior would look great. Let me know what you all think.:)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6972286055_92b17d5674_b.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6972303435_dd8f3f03e8.jpg

3quarter32
11-03-2012, 03:37 PM
Mike, I kinda like the orange idea myself for that roadster of yours, I was going to do orange on my delivery until I started photoshopping it with differnet colors. Bottom line is whatever you like is what it should be. I gave up long ago trying to be conservative.
Lee

Mikes27T
11-03-2012, 04:31 PM
Yea I think I'm going to stick with Orange but I do like that Root Beer Brown. Maybe for the next hot rod!

Got the headlights mounted on the frame. Working on making up the aluminum brackets that mount the grille shell to the radiator. Think I need to lower the radiator a little bit. Looks like it sits a little to high although it is below the top of the firewall. Thoughts?

http://imageshack.us/a/img211/8800/20121103155156101.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img688/6343/20121103155059598.jpg

3quarter32
11-03-2012, 05:24 PM
I will have double check, but I think the drop on a 32 body to shell is 1". Thats what I am planning on for mine. Maybe B.C. will chime in on that. Hey, I see a model plane in the background. I do that also.
Lee

Mikes27T
11-03-2012, 05:51 PM
I will have double check, but I think the drop on a 32 body to shell is 1". Thats what I am planning on for mine. Maybe B.C. will chime in on that. Hey, I see a model plane in the background. I do that also.
Lee

That's cool Lee!! I've been flying for a long time. That's my wifes Avistar in the background. I fly mainly Helicopters and also Giant Scale planes. I'll post some pictures of my birds. :)

I think I'm about an inch down from the top of the firewall. Have to measure.
http://imageshack.us/a/img849/9941/2012110315511373.jpg

sstock
11-05-2012, 12:41 AM
Root beer looks good. Color is such a personal thing, check out some of the pomegranate colors though.
I almost pulled the trigger on that but then chickened out.

deckofficer
11-15-2012, 01:16 AM
I used to have a root beer colored '55 Ford, blown 427 side oiler. Fun ride. I like orange also but with either color I would go with a light tan leather interior. I had a darker brown interior and it didn't offset the exterior color as much as I would have liked.
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff452/deckofficer/Old%20ides/Image153727x973-1.jpg

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff452/deckofficer/Old%20ides/Image60979x692.jpg

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff452/deckofficer/Old%20ides/Image36972x706.jpg

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff452/deckofficer/Old%20ides/Image21974x690.jpg

Mikes27T
11-15-2012, 07:59 PM
Thanks for the reply's guys! I really like orange which has been the color we were going with since before the start of this project but some days I want to go with something different like the Rootbeer Brown metallic. The wife and I even like the 1940 Ford Cloud Mist Gray shown below or 1968 Ford Highland green like on the "Bullet" Mustang . Man this is tough!! :)

Cloud Mist Gray
http://www.memorylaneclassiccars.com/40ford2doorsedan/right.jpg

Highland Green
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/classic-talk/94644d1269988867-paint-codes-highland-green-1968-29.jpg

3quarter32
11-15-2012, 09:47 PM
Mike, don't cha just hate decisions? If you can take a good side shot, and photoshop different colors, it may help with the "tuff decision" The only one you have to please is you, and well, the wife a little bit. On those 2 colors, the 40 is my favorite.
Lee

Mikes27T
11-16-2012, 06:12 PM
Photoshop is a good idea! Thanks. The 40 is also my favorite. Color of the paint is one thing but I still can't find a local body shop to work on my 27.:confused: I never thought it would be this hard to find a body shop. All they want to do is collision work. I'm now thinking I'm going to have to ship the car to Josh and B.C for paint and interior.

3quarter32
11-16-2012, 09:21 PM
Sheesh Mike, where are you located? Around here there are quite a few shops fighting for cars to paint. I'm sure Spirit can fix you up. Have seen a few of their finished cars that look really nice.
Lee

sstock
11-17-2012, 07:16 PM
Determining color was probably the hardest choice out of the entire project. I must of looked at thousands of colors at the paint shop, not to mention a couple of years looking at cars at shows too. Maybe matt black isn't so bad after all, lol. It is a safe color to go with for an old school look.

Lee in KC
11-17-2012, 07:52 PM
I drove my T around in spotty primer for three years before I finally decided how I wanted to paint it!!

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/Lee_in_KC/Frontquarter.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/Lee_in_KC/TogetherAgain001.jpg

Mikes27T
11-17-2012, 09:39 PM
Sheesh Mike, where are you located? Around here there are quite a few shops fighting for cars to paint. I'm sure Spirit can fix you up. Have seen a few of their finished cars that look really nice.
Lee

I live in North Eastern PA. So far I've only been able to get one body shop owner to come out and look at the car and when he did he wouldn't even give me a price. :mad:

Mikes27T
11-17-2012, 09:43 PM
Lee in KC beautiful T you have there! The way things are going I may just drive it around in primer for a while. Probably better that way until the bugs are all worked out.

3quarter32
11-18-2012, 09:15 AM
Mike, way back when, my buddies and I were to broke to buy paint let alone get anything painted. We usually put our cars in dark primer, then continued to add flames or scallops. My friend and I could both pull a decent line with a stripping brush, so we added stripping to our art. Looked good and was economical. That worked until we could get real paint. I learned to paint, and that took care of that problem. Maybe just be patient until you find someone that wants to do your paint.
The colors (the two on the 40 and the Mustang) shouldn't be hard to apply with todays paints. I like DuPont base and clear coat myself. With the bucket, it really wouldn't be to hard to do. I make a small paint booth in my shop using plastic tarps and a watered down floor. I know its shade tree, but it works for me, and the finished product looks fine. Just another option to think about.
Lee

T=Test
11-21-2012, 12:14 PM
Photoshop is a good idea! Thanks. The 40 is also my favorite. Color of the paint is one thing but I still can't find a local body shop to work on my 27.:confused: I never thought it would be this hard to find a body shop. All they want to do is collision work. I'm now thinking I'm going to have to ship the car to Josh and B.C for paint and interior.

You can get Maaco, Peach or other discount body shops to paint your car for cheap. The more body work you do yourself, the less it costs. Had Maaco paint my brothers '53 Ford truck for $500.oo bucks and they spayed a double coat of primer and finnish sanded. You can furnish the paint[my sugestion] or use theirs, which are limited in colors, but all look great. They sometimes have discount sales events for $299.oo or less.

Mikes27T
11-22-2012, 07:06 AM
I think I have a body shop lined up now. Going to be taking the frame to him first to have it painted then the body will go later. Just have to finish mounting the trans cooler and the frame is ready to go to paint.

3quarter32
11-22-2012, 11:23 AM
Happy Thanksgiving Mike. Where are you mounting your cooler? I've not decided wheather to mount mine on the inside frame rail or just in front of the radiator. If I use the 34 style grill instead of the 32, there will be room up front. On my 33, years ago, I mounted it on the frame rail with a louvered pan under it to suck up some air.
Lee

Mikes27T
11-22-2012, 12:15 PM
Happy Thanksgiving to you to!! My cooler will be mounted on the inside of the frame rail on the pass side just in front of the trans crossmember just like in this picture Steve (SStock) took during his build. I believe this is also how Spirit mounts their trans coolers.

http://forums.bucketheadbash.com/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=2036&d=1321744338

Mikes27T
02-02-2013, 02:21 PM
Ok haven't posted any progress on my 27 lately because there hasn't been any! LOL :D Going to mount the trans cooler this weekend and finish work on the frame as it's going for powder coating next week.

Only thing I'm hung up on is running the fuel line. I want to run the fuel line through the frame from the tank and the fuel line will come out just in front of the drivers side engine mount where the fuel pump is. Anybody see any issues with doing this? I'll be using braided fuel line. I'll post a picture later of where the holes will be.

3quarter32
02-02-2013, 10:03 PM
The only thing that I would be concerned with is the wear from viberation. It would be nice to have some way to secure it on the inside of the frame. May not even be a problem. I know if thats what I wanted to do, I would just do it. It can always be moved or replace.
Pictures, we want pictures....:)
Lee

Mikes27T
02-16-2013, 07:10 PM
Picked up a set of Shark guages from Dolphin and got them set in the dash. They are all electric so I won't need a speedometer cable. Picked up the pulse generator they sell also. Next will be the LED's for the turn signals and the high beam's.

http://imageshack.us/a/img802/8025/pictures2162013016.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img189/5076/pictures2162013008.jpg

3quarter32
02-16-2013, 10:28 PM
LQQKing good Mike, Lucky you, with all that room for gauges. Plus you even have room for switches. I've only room for speedo and two of the smaller gauges on my dash. The rest will go above in the console.
What did you end up doing on your fuel line?
Lee

Mikes27T
02-16-2013, 11:00 PM
LQQKing good Mike, Lucky you, with all that room for gauges. Plus you even have room for switches. I've only room for speedo and two of the smaller gauges on my dash. The rest will go above in the console.
What did you end up doing on your fuel line?
Lee

Thanks Lee. Yes the 27 has lots of room on the dash. Nothing with the fuel line yet. Need to get the engine back from the builder and set it in the frame with the fuel pump on. The fuel line will exit the frame right below the fuel pump and in front of the engine mount.

B.C.
02-21-2013, 04:55 AM
Just been checking out all the posts on the progress. Thanks for taking the time to keep us updated. It's fun watching a cool car come together. Spring is almost here and you will have as much fun driving it as it is building.

Mikes27T
02-21-2013, 01:47 PM
Just been checking out all the posts on the progress. Thanks for taking the time to keep us updated. It's fun watching a cool car come together. Spring is almost here and you will have as much fun driving it as it is building.

I can't wait to drive my 27 but at the same time I LOVE building and working on it.

B.C.
02-21-2013, 05:46 PM
I'm the same way Mike. I do work on building more than I do driving but I guess it's not work if you love what your doing.

Mikes27T
02-25-2013, 05:46 PM
Here are some pictures of my Trans cooler install. Made up a simple L shapped bracket out of aluminum and drilled and tapped 1/4 20 holes in the bottom of the transmission crossmember on the other side. I used Aeroquip Socketless -6 hose and -6 AN fittings with special adapters for my C4 trans.

For those who plan to use a Ford C4 trans here's something you should know. The cooler ports in the C4 Trans are 1/8-27 NPT "STRAIGHT" not tapered like normal 1/8 pipe thread. I tried finding adapters to go from 1/8-27 NPT to -6AN and only could find 1/8 NPT tapered. You can use a tapered fitting but you have to be careful not to damage the threads or crack the case if you tightened the fittings down to much and you will have to use some sort of thread sealent or it will leak. After doing a search I found a small company that makes these fittings. They are 1/8-27 Straight NPT to -6AN with O ring. You need an O ring or copper washer since the fittings are straight. Here is a link to the company. From what I can tell they are the only ones making these. http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/trans.html

Here are the adapters
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/images/trans/Fitting_Web2.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/4409/27tbuildpictures023.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img138/7299/27tbuildpictures024.jpg

goufos
02-25-2013, 06:20 PM
mile- keep the photos comming! they are worth a 1000 words! really helps me out on my build-----thanks goufos

3quarter32
02-25-2013, 09:08 PM
Looks like a good spot for mounting the cooler. About ready to do that myself.
Lee

Mikes27T
04-20-2013, 09:52 PM
Getting the 351w all setup. A couple pages back in this build thread there are pictures of a 302 I was going to use but I have since decided to go with the 351 windsor. The 351 is completely rebuilt. It's a mild build but it should move the 27 along just fine.:D

More pictures to come as I get things done.


http://imageshack.us/a/img10/8131/pictures020k.jpg

Mikes27T
04-23-2013, 07:41 PM
Got the engine/trans in place and then put the body on! First time the body has been on with the engine/trans in place. Didn't need to do any trimming to the body. Looks like I'm going to have an 1 1/2 clearence between the pulley's and the electric cooling fan so I'm pretty happy with that. Time to run the fuel line and finish up the radiator mounts and then the frame is ready for paint.

http://imageshack.us/a/img341/3553/pictures006.jpg

3quarter32
04-23-2013, 08:01 PM
Once you get the frame done, things seem to move along quickly. It is always nice when things start falling into place with no hitches. Sometime rare also. Did you polish that manifold? Looks real good in the picture.
Going to start wiring on my delivery by the end of the week. I did use your idea for mounting the trans cooler.
Lee

Mikes27T
04-23-2013, 08:22 PM
Once you get the frame done, things seem to move along quickly. It is always nice when things start falling into place with no hitches. Sometime rare also. Did you polish that manifold? Looks real good in the picture.
Going to start wiring on my delivery by the end of the week. I did use your idea for mounting the trans cooler.
Lee

I'm really enjoying the build and my son and wife both love being out in the garage with me.

The manifold came out of the box that way! I'm pretty pleased with it. Yea I was thinking of biting the bullet and doing the wiring also before paint. I know I will have to drill and tap some holes for ground wires and I won't know where to put them until I start wiring.

3quarter32
04-23-2013, 08:56 PM
I was going to paint mine first also. Then decided to get it on the road first. Work out any problems, if any, then remove body and paint. I will use disconnect plugs for wires that go from body to frame. I think only battery cables and main hot to switch will be the only ones that will be unbolted. I will fool with body work here and there as I feel like it. Alot depends on how much fun I have driving around. Gotta make Bucket Bash.
Lee

Mikes27T
04-23-2013, 09:21 PM
I was going to paint mine first also. Then decided to get it on the road first. Work out any problems, if any, then remove body and paint. I will use disconnect plugs for wires that go from body to frame. I think only battery cables and main hot to switch will be the only ones that will be unbolted. I will fool with body work here and there as I feel like it. Alot depends on how much fun I have driving around. Gotta make Bucket Bash.
Lee

I'm not sure when the body will be painted either. Right now I just want to get something on the frame to prevent rust. I was thinking of just putting a primer on it for now. Getting all the bugs worked out before painting is the way to go for sure.

sstock
04-25-2013, 08:44 AM
I actually wired my car before paint. Kind of glad I did it that way. It made it easy after paint, less chance of having an accident and chipping the paint because everything is prefitted, cut etc..

Mikes27T
04-25-2013, 04:35 PM
I actually wired my car before paint. Kind of glad I did it that way. It made it easy after paint, less chance of having an accident and chipping the paint because everything is prefitted, cut etc..

Steve how has that push button electric start worked out for you? You like it? Any issues since you've been driving the car? Would you do it again?

sstock
04-25-2013, 05:23 PM
Well I have close to 2000 miles on the car and has worked flawless.
The only downside is it takes no fewer than 5 automotive relays to get the job done. It comes pre-wired and the relays are all tanged together neatly. It sure makes the dash clean though, has a neat illuminated button too. Yeah, why not, I would do it again.:D

http://www.nloc.net/photopost/data/2624/medium/P1160386.JPG

And the relays:
http://www.nloc.net/photopost/data/2624/medium/P1150979.JPG

Mikes27T
04-25-2013, 05:36 PM
I was looking at this one from Watson's. It looks like all but 1 of the relay's are on a circuit board. Who made your's?

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/ignition_switches.html

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/images/L75B2012Web.jpg

sstock
04-25-2013, 09:03 PM
HOT DOT purchased through Wintec~$130.00

Mikes27T
04-26-2013, 11:11 AM
HOT DOT purchased through Wintec~$130.00

That's good to know that Wintec sells them. I wonder if Spirit does? Have to give them a call as I don't see it on their website.

Mikes27T
05-18-2013, 11:34 AM
Had the car out of the garage today to do some work on our cars and thought I'd take a couple pictures of the T!!! Can't wait to get new rims/tires on it instead of the junks that are on it! LOL Still love the way it sits though.

http://imageshack.us/a/img191/6435/pictures026.jpg

3quarter32
05-18-2013, 12:53 PM
Your gettin there Mike, and lookin good. Before you finalize, turn the rear radius bar over. It should be an "S", unless you did that on purpose. Sorry, had to nit pick. Your can do it to me next time. The picture from the rear angle shows the tires more in porportion, and gives it the best look. Ya, tires and wheels make a bunch of difference. What you planning on for that?
Lee

Mikes27T
05-18-2013, 01:23 PM
Your gettin there Mike, and lookin good. Before you finalize, turn the rear radius bar over. It should be an "S", unless you did that on purpose. Sorry, had to nit pick. Your can do it to me next time. The picture from the rear angle shows the tires more in porportion, and gives it the best look. Ya, tires and wheels make a bunch of difference. What you planning on for that?
Lee

I don't think that's nit picking! I think that's help! :) That's for letting me know. I have an idea for what I want as far as wheels/tires. I know I don't like big balloon type rear tires like on a lot of T buckets. I'm thinking 275 60 15's in the rear and 185 or 195 front tires.

For rims I'm thinking steel smoothies from Rally America sizes will be 15X10 rear and 15X6 fronts.

I don't know why in the pictures the front tires look SOO much bigger than the rears. They are all the same exact size. Must be the angles I'm taking the pictures.

old round fart
05-18-2013, 01:51 PM
Looks great. As for wheel/tire combo's, I like the tread width to be close the the rim width. That makes the sidewall shape nice in my eye.

3quarter32
05-18-2013, 05:42 PM
Rally America is the way to go. Early Wheel held me up for several weeks. Called Rally and had them in 3 days. Ya, the picture angle got you on the tire deception.

INDIAN OUTLAW
05-25-2013, 05:21 PM
Mike
looking good!!
I see that you are using a performance fuel pump. (I wont mention the name becuse I cant spell it. lol) you may want to use a fuel regulator with it. I have had problems with the same pump lifting the float needle valve off the seat causing fuel level to be to high in the bowls. Also I believe with that pump you can rotate the bottom half to relocate the inlet and outlet. Just in case you didnt know

Mikes27T
05-25-2013, 07:45 PM
Mike
looking good!!
I see that you are using a performance fuel pump. (I wont mention the name becuse I cant spell it. lol) you may want to use a fuel regulator with it. I have had problems with the same pump lifting the float needle valve off the seat causing fuel level to be to high in the bowls. Also I believe with that pump you can rotate the bottom half to relocate the inlet and outlet. Just in case you didnt know

Thanks for the info! I've had pretty good luck with the Edelbrock fuel pumps. I've used them on my 69 and 72 Oldsmobile's with no issues. I plan on having an inline fuel pressure gauge so I'll be able to monitor what's going on. I plan on running a 650cfm Thunder AVS Edelbrock carb. Will a 650cfm carb be ok for a 351 Windsor?? Anybody know?

blyndgesser
05-25-2013, 08:35 PM
It depends on the compression ratio and the cam. The 650 would be about right for a warmed-over 302 or a very conservative 351, but if you're running higher compression or a high-lift cam you'll want something around 750-780 CFM.

INDIAN OUTLAW
05-25-2013, 09:34 PM
Thanks for the info! I've had pretty good luck with the Edelbrock fuel pumps. I've used them on my 69 and 72 Oldsmobile's with no issues. I plan on having an inline fuel pressure gauge so I'll be able to monitor what's going on. I plan on running a 650cfm Thunder AVS Edelbrock carb. Will a 650cfm carb be ok for a 351 Windsor?? Anybody know?

Mike
for what you have a 650 will be fine for the street!

max rpm 6,000
351 ci
Vol. Eff. @80% = 487 cfm assuming the heads will flow it. so a 650 will be fine.
frank

Mikes27T
05-26-2013, 07:57 AM
Thanks for the posts guys! My 351 is pretty mild. It's running a Ford HO cam and 9 to 1 compression. The only thing is it's been bored 60 over so it's more like a 360 ci. Had to go that big so the cylinders would clean up.

sstock
05-26-2013, 09:16 AM
Looks like a really nice build, It won't be long before you shake it out. Make sure you get us a short video clip of you first ride. We live for this stuff, you know.
Steve

Carolina Man
08-14-2013, 01:57 PM
Any new updates?