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Unread 11-26-2011, 03:31 PM   #1
Mikes27T
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Default Plans for my Spirit 27T Build.

Ok well I thought I'd share my plans for my Spirit 27 T even though I don't have the car yet. It's ordered and suppost to be here in december!!!! Can't wait. Here are the specs as of now (11/2022) on what we plan for the car.




Body: Spirit 27 T

Chassis: Spirit 27T with mounts for front shocks instead of friction shocks.

Ext Color: 2012 Dodge Challenger Orange ( Header Orange)

Int Color: Tan

Engine: 302 Ford out of 96 Mustang Gt. Will be a 347 stroker.

Trans:TCI C4

Rear 10 bolt Chevy but will have rear disk conversion. Wanted to keep chevy bolt pattern.

Gear ratio: 3.55's

Dakota Digital Dual 5in round guages.




That's all what I have come up with. Only have the engine so far. It's been sitting in my shed for a few years from another project and needs a complete rebuild. Anybody see any potential issues with what I'm planning so far? Here is a picture of the engine.

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Unread 11-26-2011, 11:15 PM   #2
blyndgesser
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It sounds great to me. Which Dakota Digital gauges are you using--the VHX or the original LEDs?
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Unread 11-27-2011, 12:33 AM   #3
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Love that color Great combo.
Since you picked your rear axle ratio, you must have an idea of tire size??
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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:09 AM   #4
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@Blyndgesser I'm going with the VHX series. They are expensive but I like the look of them and having all six guages in 2 round 5in guages is pretty cool!

@sstock I didn't pick a tire size yet so I guess I jumped the gun on the gear ratio. I know the look I want for the tires/wheel's but am unsure of sizes of the rims and tires. Spirit has a 27 on their website that has the look I'm going for. I was going to call them on Monday to ask if they knew the specs of the tires and wheels on it since they built it.

Here is a picture of the car from Spirits website. I would like to go with a 17, or 18in rim with low profile tire on the rear and same size rim on the front but narrower also with a low profile tire.

This is the look I'm going for.


These are the guages from Dakota Digital I'm going to be using.

Last edited by Mikes27T; 11-27-2011 at 10:47 AM..
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Unread 11-27-2011, 11:25 PM   #5
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Keeping the fuel injection or going with a carb? (I'm an injection fan myself, but lots of folks prefer the traditional look.)
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Unread 11-28-2011, 02:28 PM   #6
Mikes27T
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Quote:
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Keeping the fuel injection or going with a carb? (I'm an injection fan myself, but lots of folks prefer the traditional look.)
Well I've been kicking that around. I have everything needed to go with a fuel injected setup that I took from a Mustang GT but a carb would be much simpler and a lot cleaner of a look. I'm sure I could hide the computer up under the dash but then there's all that wiring and you would have to run an O2 sensor for it to run right.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 04:36 PM   #7
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Sounds great! Let us know how those gauges fit--they're pretty big (5.4" according to the DD website).

Do you plan to install a hood?
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Unread 11-28-2011, 04:51 PM   #8
Mikes27T
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Sounds great! Let us know how those gauges fit--they're pretty big (5.4" according to the DD website).

Do you plan to install a hood?
They are pretty big but Josh at spirit said they will fit. Spirit is cutting out the holes for the guages for me.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 10:18 PM   #9
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She's out of the mold!! My 27 kit is going to ship this Tuesday!

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Unread 12-09-2011, 10:57 PM   #10
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Woohoo! Can't wait to see the build get started!
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Unread 12-10-2011, 02:06 AM   #11
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The only "problem" that I can see, is with that 347 stroker, its going to be fast. 3.55 gears is plenty low enough even with 31" tires. I'm running 3.54 with 31" AND a 0.64 overdrive, but for most typical engine builds what I'm running is too tall geared. General rule of thumb, unlike a diesel that needs the cruise speed at the torque peak, generally 1600~1700 rpm, a gas engine will be most fuel efficient at hwy cruise at 1/2 the rpm of your engine's torque peak. A normal build for good peak hp will have a torque peak of 4000+ rpm, so a good rpm for 70 mph would be 2000~2200. My engine, I built for max torque as low in the rpm as possible, peak at 2800 rpm. If I cruise the hwy at 1400~1600 rpm, level road, I break 30 mpg. This picture will show just how tall I'm geared, with a muffled exhaust the loudest noise is wind and tire noise.



This video was at last year's Bucket Head Bash rodeo, and is a good example of the quietness of a motor built for torque. The previous engine was built for peak hp and the exhaust had a loud bark, just due to valve timimg with the cam used for that application. Same exhaust system with an RV cam is at least 10 db quieter. On the part of the rodeo that you punch it, I went just shy of the secondaries kicking in, not enough parking lot to get slowed back down for the corner, but even with that much throttle, still pretty quiet.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/j9zOxjMHOC4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Since I had to re-teach myself how to get a video player up on this site, I'll include this one just for practice. This was one of the 50+ Sunday School kids lined up for rides at the rodeo. She was the only kid that you could hear scream ABOVE the roar of the exhaust. Listen carefully as he nails it, exhaust at its loudest, scream heard over the exhaust bark.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/evQDqpR-RjM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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Last edited by deckofficer; 12-10-2011 at 02:32 AM..
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Unread 12-15-2011, 07:05 PM   #12
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She's all done!! It's going to be shipping out this Monday and I'll have it thursday. It didn't make it out on Tuesday because of my work schedule.






@ Bob, Thanks for your reply. Your car looks and sounds awesome! With the cam, heads, and intake I'm going to be running she will make plenty of low end torque. I also build for low end torque. Most people don't realize how important torque is. I'll always sacrifice a litte HP to get more torque especially on a street driven car.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 07:58 PM   #13
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I fantasize about someday building one with a Cummins 4bt or similar diesel. Talk about torque!
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Unread 12-15-2011, 08:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I fantasize about someday building one with a Cummins 4bt or similar diesel. Talk about torque!
That would be interesting! A Turbo Diesel T Bucket!! LOL I'm sure it's already been done.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 03:31 AM   #15
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If it wasn't for the fact that this Audi is only available in Europe, I'd have it instead of my last build. The 4.2 L aluminum Audi TDI twin turbo, intercooled diesel lays down 326 hp @ 3600 and 498 lb/ft @ 1600, and weighs 80 lbs less than a sbc. Those numbers after some Gale Banks wrenching could run an easy 500+ hp at probably under 4000 rpm and 700+ lb/ft. That in a 1790 lb T would be just what I would want. More than likely 50+ mpg to boot.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 10:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
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If it wasn't for the fact that this Audi is only available in Europe, I'd have it instead of my last build. The 4.2 L aluminum Audi TDI twin turbo, intercooled diesel lays down 326 hp @ 3600 and 498 lb/ft @ 1600, and weighs 80 lbs less than a sbc. Those numbers after some Gale Banks wrenching could run an easy 500+ hp at probably under 4000 rpm and 700+ lb/ft. That in a 1790 lb T would be just what I would want. More than likely 50+ mpg to boot.
OOOh yeah, a turbo'd quattro T
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Unread 12-22-2011, 04:08 PM   #17
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She's home and in my garage!!!! Made it safe and sound with no damage. Looks awesome. Still going through all the parts and hardware to make sure I got everything.



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Unread 12-23-2011, 04:33 PM   #18
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Seeing how it looks in the gelcoat finish, I'd be tempted to paint it in a really dark metallic graphite color. I hope you'll do a really detailed build thread--I'm looking forward to following this project!

Looks like the dash is pre-drilled for 3-3/8 and 2-1/16 gauges--did you decide not to go with the big Dakota Digital VHX duo?
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Unread 12-23-2011, 05:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Seeing how it looks in the gelcoat finish, I'd be tempted to paint it in a really dark metallic graphite color. I hope you'll do a really detailed build thread--I'm looking forward to following this project!

Looks like the dash is pre-drilled for 3-3/8 and 2-1/16 gauges--did you decide not to go with the big Dakota Digital VHX duo?
Yep I will be doing a detailed build thread. Still working on insulating my garage and I'm almost done. Just have to finish up the ceiling and then turn the heat on so I can get this project started!

Yea decided the Dakota guages were too big and so we went with a more traditional setup. They are 3-3/8's and 2-1/16's guages. May be going with a set from Summit Racing called New Vintage USA. I like the beige face they have and I think it will go great with the Orange paint and tan interior. Still thinking about it though.



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Unread 12-23-2011, 06:36 PM   #20
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VERY cool.
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Unread 12-27-2011, 01:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes27T View Post
Yep I will be doing a detailed build thread. Still working on insulating my garage and I'm almost done. Just have to finish up the ceiling and then turn the heat on so I can get this project started!

Yea decided the Dakota guages were too big and so we went with a more traditional setup. They are 3-3/8's and 2-1/16's guages. May be going with a set from Summit Racing called New Vintage USA. I like the beige face they have and I think it will go great with the Orange paint and tan interior. Still thinking about it though.



I went with those too, look really nice
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Unread 12-27-2011, 03:19 PM   #22
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Not much of an update. Still working on insulating the garage but the gas company did hook up the heater so I now have heat!! Got a chance to mount the windshield posts on the car. Drivers side post is perfect but the pass side I'm going to have to do a little body work to make it perfect but that's to be expected I guess. Here are some pictures.


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Unread 12-27-2011, 03:32 PM   #23
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How much bodywork is involved in making that post fit?
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Unread 12-27-2011, 04:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
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How much bodywork is involved in making that post fit?
The fit at the top of the post isn't bad but there is a gap between the body and the very bottom of the post where the bolt hole is probably less than a 1/4 inch. I think the body just needs to be sanded down right in the middle to allow the post to sit evenly top to bottom but I'm no body guy. I will try and get a better picture of it.
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Unread 12-27-2011, 04:40 PM   #25
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Go slowly and it shouldn't be too bad. Is there a lot of curvature to try to match?
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Unread 12-27-2011, 05:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Go slowly and it shouldn't be too bad. Is there a lot of curvature to try to match?
I called the body shop I go to and who will be doing the body work and paint job on my 27 and he told me to leave it alone and don't touch a thing!!! LOL I may take his advice but I think it's a job I can do and I will take it very slowly. I looks like only the bottom part of the curve is what needs to be matched.
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Unread 12-27-2011, 08:35 PM   #27
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No sweat, you can do it. Fiberglass is a very forgiving material, if your screw it up just add a little more glass to correct the problem. Just remember one thing when you do glass work most fiberglass"new or old" has a surface curing wax on it. This wax must be removed with acetone prior to doing any repairs. Go to your public library and check out the books on boat repairs, they are filled with great information on how to repair and paint fiberglass. Good luck on your project!!
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Unread 12-28-2011, 11:56 AM   #28
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I would also cut a template out of thin plywood/or alike (if you dont have the ws cut yet) to act as if there is a windshield prior to post fitment. On my Spirit 23 it has a framed windshield and I assembled the entire setup and ws posts then worked on fitment, one side needed alittle bit of glassing then bondo to get perfect the other near nothing.
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Unread 12-28-2011, 12:50 PM   #29
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Quote:
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I would also cut a template out of thin plywood/or alike (if you dont have the ws cut yet) to act as if there is a windshield prior to post fitment. On my Spirit 23 it has a framed windshield and I assembled the entire setup and ws posts then worked on fitment, one side needed alittle bit of glassing then bondo to get perfect the other near nothing.
Steve
That is a great idea thanks! Don't have the glass yet.
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Unread 12-28-2011, 03:42 PM   #30
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Starting to lay everything out and began to put the front suspension together. Notice the radius rods and how one pair has an S support welded on and the other pair are plain. Will this look funny on the car with only 2 of them having this design? I wonder why all 4 don't have that done?

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