Are clevis and rod ends realy safe?

[INDIAN OUTLAW]

Gentlemen
I hope everyone is doing fine!
I started to build my rear radius rods ordered my clevis and three piece rod ends. I recieved them yesterday and to tell you the truth I am a little leary of using them they dont look very stout. I am looking at the possibilty of using four bar ends in lew of clevis and tie rod end in lew of rod end. I will use two rear radius rod brackets and sandwhich the bar ends in between them so as not to side load them and for the tie rod bracket I will taper the holes 7 degrees to except the stud. I will do the same for the frount. I must admit that it will not look as clean but i feel it will be a lot safer. ARE MY CONCERNS REAL OR HAVE I JUMPED OF THE DEEP END AGAIN!!
FRANK

[3quarter32]

So far I have never had a failure of either. Just make sure they are threaded in 1 1/2 times the diameter of the threaded part. On ball type rod ends, I always use a large flat washer on the outside part of the ball, just in case the ball should come out of socket. Periodic inspections are your friend.
Lee

[INDIAN OUTLAW]

thanx Lee
Thats some good info!! I realy like the washer as a fail safe!

[sstock]

Frank, I'm completely on board with you on the heims and clevis ends. They just don't look stout enough for me either but I know a very good T bucket builder that has absolutely no problem with them and running the car hard with them too. A safety washer on the heims on the bolt head side is a mandatory thing for me. On the clevis ends I'm going to use a safety wire, when I do some upgrades this winter.

I also had to use some grade 8 fasteners to get a decent torque value on the clevis because I was getting movement there and it was causing popping and growning at the clevis to rear end mount. There should be no movement where the clevis and frame mount meets. Polished stainless 5/16" bolts for the clevis look great but are not a functional wise choice in my opinion here. I like your choice, think you are on the right track. I also like the triangulated 4 bar rear setup for my next T, no need to have that rear panhard that takes up space for a decent size fuel tank.

[INDIAN OUTLAW]

Thanx for the input SStock !!

[23Paddywagon]

I had bending and even braking of my bars and clevis'. I had the chrome U rods on my car and when it was first tested with the motor installed the brackets bent that connected the rods to the frame. After the brackets were made stronger the rod itself bent and after I placed a rod from the middle of the rod going to the back bracket my clevis broke. This bending/braking was after getting on it real hard. I have a 302 with a 5 speed and a bronco 9" rear end.
I replaced the chrome rods with the spirit stock rods and bought some titanium clevis ($35 each). This has held so far but I have not really gotten on it hard either.