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Unread 03-25-2013, 03:06 PM   #61
Mikes27T
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Guofos this isn't my build thread but I'll answer your question. Sorry Lee. Yes you should use something between the fiberglass body and the frame. Rubber would be a good choice. I'm going to be using body to frame webbing from So Cal speed shop. Here is a link.

http://www.socalsac.com/new-products/body-frame-webbing

I also bought a 1/4 inch thick rubber mudd flap like you see on the big rig trucks from NAPA and cut out pieces to to put between the fuel tank mounts and the frame. I also did the same for the radiator mounts. Any place where it's metal on metal.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 05:15 PM   #62
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Yep, like Mike said. I may use a web like material, similar to the military belt stuff. I do have 1/4" rubber the full length of the bottom of the radiator. For you eastern guys, is the first "A" in radiator, long or short? It is long here in Okieland. My friend from work says it is short, as in radical.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 05:33 PM   #63
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Quote:
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Yep, like Mike said. I may use a web like material, similar to the military belt stuff. I do have 1/4" rubber the full length of the bottom of the radiator. For you eastern guys, is the first "A" in radiator, long or short? It is long here in Okieland. My friend from work says it is short, as in radical.
Lee
I say radiator like it's a RAY of light and not like radical.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 09:02 PM   #64
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Good for you Mike. He, my friend, says sore for saw. I asked him how he says radio. He says he don't say it at all, cause he don't listen to it. lol. By the way, he is from New Jersey.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 10:17 PM   #65
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Looking good Lee! If you really turn it on, you may be able to make the NSRA gig in Okc! Would love to have a lift like yours! John
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Unread 03-29-2013, 08:34 PM   #66
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Decided to paint the firewall. Once the body and engine goes back in place, can't get to the firewall. I will give it the clearcoat tomorrow afternoon.
Lee
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Unread 03-29-2013, 10:16 PM   #67
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Ah! Resale red!!! Lol
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Unread 03-29-2013, 10:43 PM   #68
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AHHH I dream of the day when my 27 will see color!!! Looks great Lee!!
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Unread 04-14-2013, 09:57 PM   #69
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The exhaust rear exhaust mounts are in place. Alternator bracket is finished. Brakes are working. Rearend seal is leaking. Should be a easy fix. As soon as I get the windshield header glassed back in place I can mount the ceiling console, that will hold most of the wiring for the car. Want to drive it to a run on the first weekend of May. Ya, it won't be finished, but should be driveable.
Lee

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Unread 04-15-2013, 12:02 AM   #70
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Looks great Lee! I don't know of many rods that get finished. Problem with driving one as soon as you can makes it real hard to make yourself go back and work! All you want to do is DRIVE!!! LOL
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Unread 04-15-2013, 06:00 AM   #71
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I know John. But paint will have to wait. Gotta drive it, gotta drive it. Making hot rod sounds now as I type.
Lee
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Unread 04-15-2013, 06:58 AM   #72
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Looks great Lee! Really like the tips of the exhaust!! I bet you can't wait to drive it! It's like waiting for christmas morning!!
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Unread 05-07-2013, 06:35 PM   #73
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The wiring is about finished now. Just head and tail lights to go. Still have to tidy up wire under dash, but they are all hooked up. Put all switches in the console above windshield, along with the volt and fuel gauge. The dash has oil pressure, water temp, and speedo.
Lee



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Unread 05-07-2013, 07:26 PM   #74
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Looks great, nice clean dash. For me after the wiring got done, was pretty much a turning point for coming down to the finish line.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 09:25 PM   #75
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Thanks SS. Wanted the dash to stay uncluttered as possible. Gotta have room for the pin stripper.
Lee
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Unread 05-08-2013, 06:39 PM   #76
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Looks great Lee!! Have you fired up the engine yet? If not I hope you get some video of the first start up!!
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Unread 05-08-2013, 08:50 PM   #77
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Thanks Mike, Not fired it up yet. Going to welding supply tomorrow to get battery cables made up. Hoping to find an Odessey 925 battery also. Ya, I will see if the boss (wife) will video the start up. The engine has been sitting for several years, but turns free, and oil is clean. It was in a truck that was totaled with 2k miles, so should be almost good as new.
Lee
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Unread 05-27-2013, 08:08 PM   #78
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Not much going on here for pictures. Thursday is scheduled as first engine run. Everything is wired up as far as all gauges and whatever it takes to start it. Just finallizing the head and tail lamps is all that is needed. Hope to at least do a short drive if all goes well. If all goes well, the next stop will be the sheetmetal man to get the hood made, then louvers. Guess I should get the windshied cut and installed also. I hate goggles!
Lee
Oh,,,anybody know where I can get about 2 feet of 1 1/2" fuel tubing?
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Unread 05-28-2013, 07:30 AM   #79
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One and a half inch fuel tubing? You running a top fuel motor? John
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Unread 05-28-2013, 12:29 PM   #80
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Haha, maybe the fuel line is doubling for a roll bar.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 02:17 PM   #81
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Quote:
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Haha, maybe the fuel line is doubling for a roll bar.
Bigger fuel capacity for those longer trips! All kinds of possibilities!
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Unread 05-28-2013, 04:58 PM   #82
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Hey thats pretty funny guys. No, not a fuel line from tank to pump. It is for the filler cap to the tank. Wish it was just regular line. They want around 22 bucks a foot for it. Good thing is, I only need 2 feet. Bad thing is, they only sell it in 3 foot pieces. Ain't Hot Rods fun?
I did hook up battery today, and everything worked. Bumped the start switch, and the started kicked in ok. I bought an Odessey PC925 battery on recommendation. It is 6.5 x 6.5 x 5 tall.
Come on Thursday, I can hardly wait. Busy tomorrow with doc appt. and then Paul McCartney concert in the evening.
Lee
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Unread 05-28-2013, 07:26 PM   #83
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Don't stock filler tubes use steel line with a 3" section of rubber on each end?
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Unread 05-28-2013, 07:56 PM   #84
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Yes John, most I have seen do that. This filler needs to make about a 90 degree curve in about an 18" distance. I suppose if I weren't so impatient, I could have a piece of metal tubing bent to fit that area. However,,,time is a wasting and I wanna go for a ride.
Lee
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Unread 05-29-2013, 07:50 AM   #85
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Muffler shop or header bends come to mind. Got an old header laying around?
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Unread 05-29-2013, 07:54 AM   #86
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Good luck on your first run cycle.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 06:49 PM   #87
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Yahooie, it started right up and ran just fine. Had to set the distributor by ear for now. I have a timing pointer on the way. The crate engines don't come with one. This engine had about 2k miles on it when I got it, so no break in is needed. It has a RV cam, which I have ran before and like alot. I am pretty pleased with the sound of the exhausts.
I think the alternator is bad. Never did charge at all. Everything else seems to be working fine. Got a few loose ends to take care of on the front end, and its time for a test run.
Lee
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Unread 05-30-2013, 07:55 PM   #88
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Way to go Lee! Good luck with the first drive. Now they moved the Bash to Sept. it will be a lot cooler I think. if I can get over the hinge thing, I hope to be able to do that.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 08:20 PM   #89
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John, even if you don't have your bucket ready, you need to go to the Bash. Lots of good looking cars there. Great place to get ideas also. I know the delivery will be there. It will in primer, because I am going to put some miles on it and have some fun before finishing the paint.
Lee
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Unread 05-31-2013, 07:13 PM   #90
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I am now an expert at 3 wire alternators. Just wire them correcttly, and use a diode on the exiter wire, and it will work just fine. Oh, how I love GOGGLE!
Lee
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